"Our service stops when our customer stops calling"

24. Firewall
Inspecting a town house/condo unit, gable style roof over back to back and side to side units. When entering the attic area there were no firewall between any of the units and normal plywood roof sheathing. The attic area was open through out above all the units. (12) From a security standpoint, the interiors of all the units were accessible from the unsecured attic hatches in the closet of each unit. Also, the bath and kitchen exhaust fans were only vented into the attic and not extended to the exterior. 

23.  Attic Inspection
6 month old house, homeowner complaining that his 12 year old son's bedroom is very cold. He had paid the builder extra to finish the room over the garage into a bedroom. There was one heat register coming into the room and it was right next to the door. There was no return air register and the bedroom door was tight to the carpeting when closed, restricting air circulation. I then climbed through the small hatch (12 x 18) in the closet to check for insulation. There was no insulation on the side walls, under the floor or on the ceiling. I explained to the owner that the walls, floor and ceiling would have to be insulated. Also, that an insulated return air duct should be installed on the outside of the room to allow for some air circulation.  

22. Built-up roof
Doing an inspection for a relocation company, the seller stated that I did not have to inspect the flat roof because he just replaced it two weeks ago. His neighbor is a roofer and he had him put on a new roof . I informed him that I have to inspect every roof, take a picture of the roof surface and inspect the flashings, skylights and chimney. When I got up on the roof there was a new built-up roof, however the contractor never finished installing the top coat of hot tar on top of the felts. (50% complete) Some of the roofing felts were already curling. I informed the seller that the roof would have to be replaced due to the present condition of the felts.

21.  New Hot Air Furnace
I went into the house and the seller made it a point to state that he had just put $1500 into the heater and that I did not have to inspect it. The improvements included a new high efficiency burner and improved ductwork. The seller was really boasting. While inspected the heater, and as I climbed into the crawl space I noticed that the flue pipe was rusted out and had fallen off. All the exhaust was dumping into the crawl space. I state that an inspector should never assume anything. He should be sure to inspect everything.

20. Hot Water Heat
Inspecting a boiler for hot water heating, there was no water pressure on the boiler guage. The system was radiant heat with the water pipes in the concrete floor. I added pressure to the boiler  (12 lbs) & turned up the thermostat, the circulator turned on and the pressure dropped to zero (0) in less than 5 seconds. There was no evidence of any water leaking at the boiler. In my report I stated that there was no pressure on the boiler and that there was a leak in the water supply piping system, possibly under the concrete floor. I also noted that the heat distribution system wound have to be replaced. I recommended installing baseboard heating units to replace the defective piping under the concrete floor. The home owner called a heating contractor to correct the pressure on the boiler, and he added a pressure reducing valve (automatic water feed) to correct the pressure.The water was running all the time under the concrete floor. I informed my client that this was not an acceptable solution and that the baseboard heating units should be installed to the boiler. The heating contractor stated that the boiler was now holding pressure. I asked him why he didn't sell the seller on putting a proper functional heat distribution system, and he said that she stated she didn't have a lot of money. So he installed a valve that would not allow the boiler to heat the house only heat water and drain it under the concrete floor, wasting energy and water. (unethical/stupid contractor)

19. Electric Breaker  (L. Hampton Scott III)
Inspected a house constructed in 1955 and completely remodeled in 1995. [40 years later-total gut job]. House was beautiful and had a new and, supposedly inspected, 150 amp electric service. In inspecting the panel, which was located in a wooden cabinet in the dining area next to the kitchen, I hung my ammeter on the 50 amp breaker leads going to the range, or so I thought. Guess what? Turn on the electric range and no amperage reading although the range was working fine. Then I turned on the dryer and checked the amps and was drawing 10 amps on the 50 amp breaker. Were the circuits mislabeled? Nope, during remodeling, the range was moved to where the dryer had been and the range was relocated to the dryers original location. The situation proved that the 10 amp.dryer was being fed by a 50 amp breaker with number 6 wire and the 9000 watt range was being fed with # 10 wire.[35 amp draw]. Made me look good but I just happened to stumble on it.

18. Flue Gas (Alan Silverman)
Inspecting a boiler, there was a 3" rust hole on the top of the boiler cabinet. When I tested the flue gas at the bonnet with my monoxer, I got a reading of 5-10PPM. (Low reading indicating relatively complete and clean combustion) On a lark, I took a reading at the rust hole and got over 500PPM. The reason the flue reading was so low was all the flue gas was going out of the rust hole directly into the basement.
Best part of the story is the seller could not understand why the PGW serviceman who serviced the heater two weeks prior said everything was ok with the system!!!

17. Combustion Air Intake Pipe
Inspecting a newly installed very high efficiency gas furnace, there was no intake pipe installed to the furnace at the 4" hole provided by the manufacturer. I informed my client that the intake pipe should be run from the exterior wall to the furnace for proper combustion air, efficiency and safety. There was no installation manual from the manufacturer with the furnace. I told my client that the manual would explain how the combustion air pipe should be installed. They called the contractor that installed the furnace & he stated that he did not have a manual and that the combustion intake pipe was not needed. The buyer called another contractor who stated, that installing the pipe would make the system less efficient, because it would pull cold air from outside that would then have to be heated, wasting energy. I then informed my client that this contractor did not know anything about high efficiency heating. The intake air was for gas combustion and that this air was then sent up the chimney preventing the combustion air from being drawn from the finished basement 70 degree air and sending this house air up the chimney. I gave my client the name of a good heating contractor that would help her correct the improper installation. She then called me to state that he corrected the problem and explained to her that I was correct in my assessment of the furnace installation. He also gave her a copy of the manufacturer's installation manual that the other 2 contractors stated they could not get from the manufacturer.

16. Question?
In my attic I have 10 inches of fiberglass insulation. When I went up there last week I noticed that there were rust stains on top of the insulation. Can you tell me what is causing the stains, is it a problem and how do I correct the problem if one exists?
1. The cause of the rust stains is from moisture forming on the shingle nails in the winter due to inadequate attic ventilation.  When the warm moist air in your house rises in the winter, it enters the attic. With proper attic ventilation the moist air will disipate up and out the high exhaust vents. With inadequate or improper attic ventilation the moist air will migrate towards the coldest surface, normally the roof shingle nails at the north facing roof. Small icicles or droplets of water will form on the nails. These water drops will then drip down, as the attic warms up during the day, on to the insulation, causing the stains.
  2.  There could be a problem, because too much moisture on the roof sheathing and the roof sheathing could rot making the roof unsafe to walk onto.
  3.  To correct the problem you have to install proper attic ventilation. Continuous soffit /eave vents and a continuous ridge vent with a baffle works best. (See http://www.certainteed.com/ventilation/)

15. Gas Fired Hot Water Boiler
Inspecting a 30 year old cast iron boiler, I saw water dripping on the burner inside the fire box. I informed my client that the boiler would have to be replaced. The seller stated that the had a service contract with the gas company. One week later my client called and told me that the gas company representative stated that there was too much water in the boiler and that's why it was leaking. I explained to my client that the system was sealed and there was no way for water to leak unless there was a crack or a hole in the cast iron. I reiterated that the boiler would have to be replaced.

14. Clay Tile Roof
Large 80 year house with an original clay tile roof. There were  holes worn through the copper valleys. I told my client that the valleys would have to be replaced and that the cost would be approximately $1500.00. The seller's agent informed us that the owner had the garage roof replaced last year because the valleys were leaking and she didn't want any more leaks. She replaced the roof with a good asphalt shingle. When we entered the garage there was a large stack of clay tiles from the garage roof, there was NO DETERIORATION on any part of the tiles. Cleaned off the exposed section and the covered section looked exactly the same. the condition of the tile tells me that these tile would probably last another 80 years. I explained to my client that I think that the seller made a mistake in replacing a roof that would last another 80 years with one that would probably last 20 to 25.

13. Townhouse
6 year old townhouse development with asphalt/fiberglass shingle roofing. There were horizontal cracks across the shingles and this appeared to be a manufacturing defect. I informed my client that I thought there was a limited remaining life expectancy on the shingles. The shingle manufacturers warranty might cover replacement of the shingles, however as most manufacturers do not transfer warranties to a new buyer, I informed my client to have the seller contact the shingle manufacturer.

12. Foundation
Settled brick walls and block foundation walls, Approximately 2 inches in each corner and about 1 inch at the center steel beam support. Exterior brick walls repointed numerous times. (house age approx. 25 years) Obvious major structural damage and settlement of the footings and foundation walls. Recommended to have foundation, footings and brick walls evaluated by a structural engineer.

11. Water Penetration
Water was leaking into the basement at the rear of the garage, at the  poured concrete foundation wall. The homeowner called because a roofer, general contractor and plumber could not determine the source of the water penetration.
The grading near the house walls was sloped away from the building adequately.
The roof above the house and garage showed no signs of leaking or wear. (12 years old)
All flashings were metal and appeared to be installed properly.
There were no plumbing pipes in the area above the leak.
After further investigation, there was a very small spot in the basement at the top of the foundation wall where you could look under the garage floor. The under side of the concrete floor was visible, the soil under the garage floor was washed out or settled approximately 4" to 16". The blacktop driveway at the front of the garage was slope towards the garage doors and the crack between the concrete floor and the blacktop was allowing the water to run under the concrete floor, the full length of the garage and into the basement.

10. Water Heater
Gas fired water heater 4 years old, looked good, no visible water leaks, extension pipe on relief valve, water and gas shut offs were present. I backed up to look at the heater and noticed that there was no chimney flue pipe connected to the top of the heater. The gas exhaust was venting into the basement. As this was a rental property, no one noticed because the owner wasn’t there and the tenants did not come into the basement.

9. Steam Heat
Inspecting the house, I did the outside and the attached garage first. There was a disconnected radiator in the garage with the supply and return pipes capped. I turned on the thermostat and the 3-year-old steam boiler turned on and operated properly. However there was still no pressure after about 25 minutes. I went through the house checking for leaks or defective vents at the radiators and could not find any leaks. I then went into the garage and it was full of steam. The steam supply pipe had split at the bottom and was releasing steam into the garage. My guess was that when the contractor capped the pipe it sagged down to the floor, some water or steam entered the pipe and froze, splitting the iron. When the system was running, steam eventually fed into this pipe and came out of the split in the pipe, preventing any pressure build-up in the boiler.

8. Vinyl Siding – New Home
January inspection, new home with vinyl siding. The siding was nailed too tight and was installed too tight at the J channels to allow for proper movement. (As per vinyl siding manufacturers specifications) The dark blue vinyl siding was also installed over foil faced wall sheathing, which is also improper. I explained the problem to the buyer and told him that the siding would be buckling and some pieces could even buckle off the wall by the end of the summer. My recommendation was that the siding be removed and re-installed properly now, before any buckling occurred.
The buyer called me in august to come and re-inspect the siding and write another report about the condition of the siding. Upon re-inspection, the siding was severely buckled in some areas and there were some other areas that the siding was hanging off the walls. The vinyl siding manufacturer agreed that the siding was installed improperly but would not put it in writing to the homeowner. With my report the homeowner eventually got H.O.W. to make the builder install new vinyl siding, properly according to the specifications that I prepared. (The claim with HOW took 4 years.) There were also 4 other homes that benefited from my report and received new siding.

7. Termite Damage
Inspecting a 100-year-old house, I walk into the living room and the floor is sagging approximately 6 inches in the center. In the basement, the floor joists were totally eaten away by the still active termites. The only thing holding the floor joists up were the nails into the joists from the sub-flooring. The homeowner was sitting in a chair in the center of the living room, the chair and TV table were blocked up to level with books. After further investigation the books were also being eaten by the termites, as were the chair and TV stand.

Side note: The home owner weighed approximately 400 lbs. And he was sitting above me while inspecting the basement, I requested that he move from the chair during the inspection.

6. Insulation
Inspecting the attic of a three- (3) year old house, built in 1989. There was no insulation in the attic. Apparently the builder forgot to insulate the attic and no one checked to see if the insulation was installed adequately. I explained to the seller and buyer, the heating and cooling losses associated with no attic insulation.

5. Insulation
Inspecting a new house, at the final walk through for the buyer. There was an in-law suite at the side of the house, and when I climbed into the attic there was no insulation installed. The forman stated that the insulation contractor ran out of insulation and was going to come back to insulate that attic. Also, the insulation in the main house attic was only 6 inches, so I explained to the forman that the insulation contractor should re-insulate up to the 10 inches required by the current code. 

4. Stucco
Inspecting a new house, (sitting finished for 7 months) there were cracks in the stucco around the house, the buyer wanted to know what caused them and how to repair the cracks permanently.
My evaluation was: The framing lumber (studs) could have been excessively wet or excessively dry, shrinking or expanding when the stucco was installed, depending on the type of wall sheathing used. The stucco contractor could have installed the stucco improperly, too thin, (thin stucco, 1/2 inch, is common in this area to cut corners for most builders) too much Portland cement, or the wire lath might not have been secured properly.
I informed my clients that they would probably have to cover the cracks with a fiberglass mesh tape and then install a new finish coat over all the existing stucco or they will have to restucco the entire house..

3. Structure
Inspecting a front to back split level that the homeowner had turned the second floor into bedroom areas. The 2 X 6 ceiling joists were now used as the floor joists and were not adequate to stop the floor from the extreme bouncing when you walked across the rooms. Also the floor joist were only nailed next to the studs and some of the nails were pulling away, due to the added weight and movement of the joists. I explained to my client how to upgrade the floor structure so that it would be adequate for a living area.
I informed them that they should contact a structural engineer to design the repairs.
My recommendation was to remove the plywood sub-floor, double each joist nailing them together along the full length, install solid bridging between each joist, install joist hangers at the center wall to prevent the joist from pulling away from the studs and then re-install the plywood sub-floor gluing the sub-floor to the joists.

2. Trusses
Inspecting a 6 month old house, the ceramic tile floor in the second floor bath was cracked. The owners stated that the contractor had replaced the floor three times and each time in re-cracked. I determined that the floor trusses were too small for the span of the floor. There was too much deflection in the trusses and that the tile kept cracking, due to the bouncing floor. I told them that they would have to contact the truss manufacturer or a structural engineer to design a proper repair.
My remedy was to remove the drywall from the ceiling below, sandwich 3/4 inch plywood on each side of the trusses, nailed every 8 inches to stiffen the trusses and prevent the deflection that was occurring in the floor.

1. Crawl Space
Inspecting a crawl space for the owner claiming that he had a structural problem. The crawl space had a dirt floor and there was about 16 inches between the floor joist and the dirt floor. The exterminator stated that there was no wood destroying insect infestation except for minor termites in the door frame of the detached garage. However he never crawled in the crawl space because he stated that it was too low.
Doing my inspection, I discovered that there was extensive damage to the floor joists and sub-flooring from powder post beetles. They were still active and were also visible in the window sill of the bay window and on the dining room ceiling joists were the light was removed to be replaced.
The exterminator had spray treated the joists in the crawl space and had sistered some of the more severely damaged joists. I estimated that to properly repair or replace the damaged joists, sub-flooring, etc. would probably cost around $35,000.
The new exterminator stated that the whole house would have to be tented, as the spray treatment would only work for the areas visible and not above the crawl space. There was no other way to treat behind the plaster wall, except to tent the house. The cost for the treatment was approx. $6000.00 (1987)

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